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so without going too deep into this but

I want I always emphasize with

electrical there is no room for bravado

or macgyverism and you perfection is the

only sort of like being an accountant

good enough is never good enough as an

accountant it's a precise business being

an electrician is the same thing so it's

essential that every connection you do

has to be perfect if it isn't perfect

you have to redo it doing 90 percent of

your boat perfectly is irrelevant the 10

percent or is enough to make the

connection potentially be a source of

heat and a fire so with that it's really

essential to do it right and that's what

Gareth is gonna try to demonstrate today

and we're gonna be showing you with all

the tools that we brought so obviously

you're gonna be choosing a lot of

different sizes of panels and you've got

a lot of choice all of solar panels

being rigid or flexible are gonna have

what are called mc4 connectors mc4

connectors are connectors and we'll show

that that can be done and undone that

provide a really good seal to be outside

because at the end of the day think

about a solar panel on your boat is

gonna have some sort of connection to

interconnect the solar panel to the

cabling or the solar wiring those

cabling have to be done outside so it's

gonna be out in the elements for

instance on my boat I've had my solar

array install for five and a half years

and I have solar connections that are

out in the elements 365 days a year and

right now they're probably practically

underwater with the amount of water in

water we're getting and they're out

there and they've got to be able to

never corrode or so you've got to have a

really good seal and gareth is gonna be

showing that so when you're thinking

about doing a solar installation on your

boat there's gonna be what are all the

different things you're gonna be looking

at you're gonna be looking at obviously

having a solar panel or many solar

panels the terminals at the solar panel

are gonna be mc4 connectors and we're

going to be demonstrating that you

absolutely need to have what's called an

outdoor rated cable even though it's

only a gauge 10 cable the shield or the

mother shield but the god I'm just

capping here

the the jacket of the wire is actually

double sized on a marine cable so if you

look at a marine wire for solar you're

gonna look at the cable and you're gonna

think it looks like a gauge eight wire

but in reality the jacket is almost

double the size inside is only a gauge

10 and why that's relevant or is that

when you start installing on an MC 4

connector they're assuming that the wire

going into that connector is gonna be a

solar wire if it's a normal gauge 10

wire you'll never be able to make a good

seal so it's guaranteed water will get

in so the only way to guarantee a good

seal with using an MC 4 is to absolutely

use a solar wire going in that because

that is double jacketed cable and you'll

see we've got solar cabling down here

you'll see the difference it's a much

thicker jacket around the wire the other

thing too is obviously your solar panels

are on the outside you're gonna have to

find some sort of way to go inside the

boat and going inside the boat is gonna

have to be done some sort of way how are

you gonna do that you might put a cable

clamp

you might there's different blue seas

and different companies do these cable

systems where there's absolutely no what

you can even mount them on a deck and

it's a rubber that you drill a hole

through and as you screw it down it

tightens down so no water because you've

got to make sure obviously and

especially in this climate it's gonna

rain and if you've got a cable that you

just put Sikaflex to stop the water from

coming in that's not gonna work so you

need to have a really good idea and when

we do installations on it on all our

boat the boats that we deal with we

always make sure there's a drip loop so

as the water kind of like gets on the

cable and goes down we make sure that

the water goes back hits the bow goes

back inside we never run a cable

directly from a Bimini straight into a

cable clamp because what's gonna happen

is gonna become always constantly being

hit with rainwater that's gonna kind of

a dear to the cable as it goes down and

then you're just gonna be constantly

having water pushing trying to get in a

drip loop is a really good idea

inside the boat then you can change via

terminal block easily to gauge 10 wire

marine right which is gonna be less

money smaller and you can do that inside

on a terminal block but on the outside

of the boat and because the connection

is going to an MC for connection you

have to have solar wire that is gauge 10

the NIC thing that you're gonna have and

I'm going to show you that a little bit

later than a few slide is what's called

the controller there's two types of

controllers there's what's called PWM

controllers or MPPT controllers we

strongly advise that you use what's

called an MPPT controller MPPT

controllers are about nineteen eight

percent in efficient efficient ie you

lose about two percent at PWM is about

21 percent inefficient so you're gonna

lose if you buy a hundred watt solar

array and you have a PWM controller you

bought it off eBay and it's much cheaper

than MPPT and you think you scored a

deal

sorta like go to McDonald's I think why

would I ever buy more than a four dollar

meal I'm so smart well you're not

getting a full meal you're getting a

four dollar meal right so there's

reasons why you want to pay more and

your hundred watt solar array is

suddenly gonna give you only ever

maximum of maybe seventy nine ones

so you're just discarding twenty watts

off your solar rate because you chose at

PWM controller so it's essential and

I've got a lot of boat owners that have

an existing array have an existing PWM

and if they want to increase their

capacity for solar array the first thing

to do is just change the controller you

get suddenly a 25 percent gain of your

solar you go from 80 to 100 almost

instantly by just changing the

controller and the last bit and this is

absolutely critical is that when any

times you do a connection to a battery

you have to have a fuse connection at

the battery so you're controlling I'll

show or diagram your controller is going

to be connected to the battery and also

connect it to the solar panels there has

to be a fuse at the start of the circuit

and the start of the circuit is the

battery not the solar panel a solar

panel will never output more than it's

meant to a battery has m1

can well so if you remember there's

different choices like in our business

we've got about six different lines of

solar panels you know there's a rigid

and there's flexible and there's all

choices and within flexible if you look

at doing a and I'm not a canvas person

but there's ways of mounting a solar

panel on two different sorts of canvas

you can mount them with zippers velcro

grommets snaps some owners simply use

the grommets and they'll use a bungee

they don't want anything permanent

they're not really committed they take

it on take it off some powerboat owners

or even sell boats that have heart talks

are gonna use actually a self-adhesive

backing in the back of the panel they'll

actually glue them on so I've done that

on sea Ray's Tierra's grainy whites and

on sale boaters that actually have a

hard at the mini or a hard Dodger you

know the I think it start to go you know

that a hard Dodger some owners it's very

thin shell they'll actually glue their

solar panels with self-adhesive peel and

stick backing right onto the the Dodger

when it comes to wiring your solar

panels you're gonna have a choice

obviously if you have a single solar

panel it's pretty easy it's a single

solar panel to controller two batteries

but you might on your boat have two

pounds three pounds four panels assuming

you don't have shading right imagine

you're putting it on top of your Bimini

on your powerboat and there is no radar

mass higher and it's always gonna evenly

see the Sun you could wire your panels

either in series or in parallel but I

would prefer to see series because in

series at least the advantages the

amperage stays the same all the way to

the controller you're just gonna have a

higher voltage so if you've got four

panels are outputting twenty volts each

and you put them in series the voltage

sort of like to golf cards in series go

six volts plus six volts equals twelve

volts well you're gonna have 20 volts 20

volts 20 volts 20 volts you'll have 80

volts going on the cable and the

amperage is gonna stay the same

once it gets to the controller the

controller is going to modify the high

voltage bring it down to what the

battery needs which may be 13 volts and

then suddenly the amperage is gonna be

calculated so remember P equals VI so if

you bring the voltage down by 10 the

average is gonna go up by 10 right so

there's inverse correlation between

current and voltage I emphasize series

because it's a way to offset voltage

drop on a boat especially with DC

Circuit's the big issue that we have is

the further something is from the

battery the more you're gonna lose of

power and so if you can harness all that

energy and the energy that's at the

solar panel and bring it instantly to

the batteries without losing 5 or 10%

because the voltage drop why would you

do that and voltage drop is offset by

higher voltages so the higher the

voltage the better it is this is another

little schematic of what a typical solar

panel install looks like you see in this

instance on the left side there's a

positive a negative cable going to

positive and negative cable going to

positive and there's only two cables

coming back so that's the other

advantage of doing in this installation

you actually have only two wires going

to the bimini to the dogger wherever

you're bringing it and those two cables

are gonna actually bring three solar

panels down so it's one way to do that

and then you'll see as well there's

going to be two connections going to the

controller and then two connections

going to the batteries it's essential in

this diagram they did not put the fuse

at the right place the fuse is gonna

need to be right at the battery so it

can be anywhere in the circuit a fuse is

always located at the source of most

power if two batteries are connected in

parallel over a long distance you

actually need a fuse at both ends but in

distance because the solar panels are

only rated at whatever they're rated 100

watt panel will never give you 500 watts

it can never fail and give you more all

right it's only gonna fail in failure

it's not gonna fail to give you more the

battery has way more power than 100

so this cable might be only able to

handle 30 amps but if you have a dead

short it could actually there's no

resistance on a wire per se it could

maybe want to run a thousand apps on

that wire so it's essential to have a

fuse at the beginning of this circuit

located at the battery and also do not

be tempted to ever bring the MPPT

controller wiring to a switch or a panel

and put it on a breaker all charging

sources on a boat have to be directly

connected to the battery all you never

want to be able to disconnect a load or

charging circuit and have other loads

connected to it there's a lot of reason

I probably takes me ten minutes

explain but the end result is all

Chargers on your boat alternator battery

charger methanol fuel cell whatever it

is Solar controller wind turbine all of

those go to a place called the untwist

positive distribution or directly to the

battery if you don't have a lot of

circuits so that no matter what you turn

the switch on or off the solar panel is

still connected to the battery

the next thing is I'm showing you a

little bit of diagram and you'll see

that cable you can buy MC for cables

connected directly onto the jacket and

the large outdoor rated solar wiring

it's all black which is nice because it

makes it neater honestly white cabling

on your boat or bad or yellow it's not

necessarily what you want to see on the

outside then what you have is you've got

mc4 connectors and I've got some on the

table and that's what character is gonna

be demonstrating demonstrating how to

actually install that connector onto a

solar cable and here you've got and and

this is key

luckily the solar panels don't have two

male connections or two female

connections it's a male and a female

meaning once you've actually ride the

right polarity as you remove on and off

the panel you'll never have to worry

about mix matching those connectors male

will only ever go on female and female

ever go on man so it's kind of foolproof

right and so it makes it easy for

removing or reinstalling the panel you

have two polarities of cables that are

going directly out of the panel and when

you connect on to the controller you're

gonna have also opposite polarity so you

can never mix and match because you

would not want to mix positive to

negative or negative to positive that

would blow up the panel and that's

happened to some of our owners that

actually didn't themselves and they're

inverted the polarity installing it and

the panel was damaged and they had to

buy another pen I talked about this a

little bit earlier there's a significant

difference between a pwm controller an

MPPT controller an MPPT controller is

sort of like a smart battery charger and

why that's important is because the Sun

is going to output more at noon than in

the morning and your batteries might be

full by one o'clock the controller

actually knows what the battery voltage

is and it knows what it's been doing

over time sort of like a battery charger

and it's constantly adjusting the

voltage

to optimally charge that battery because

the Sun might be outputting way more

voltage than the battery needs at any

given time like on my boat I have six

controllers on my boat and my batteries

in the summer might be charged with the

battery charger and each of the

controllers has to say wait stop I don't

need to do anything the batteries are

full and even though it's noon and the

sun is shining that's gonna say you know

what we don't need to convert solar

power to battery power let's open the

circuit and we're not gonna harness the

Sun energy right now so it's constantly

adjusting the output to the battery

depending on what the battery needs

here's an example of a controller

seventy-five fifteen the other thing

when you buy a controller remember that

not all controllers are the same there

are really four things you're gonna look

for when you buy a controller one is

going to be what's my battery bank size

that voltage do I have a 24 volt boat 12

Volvo 32 volt boat 48 volt boat it's

possible you're going to decide a

controller that's matched to your

battery bank nominal voltage then you're

gonna have to say depending on the size

of array that I have what is the maximum

amperage that I will have coming not

from the solar panels but after it

leaves the controller for the batteries

am I gonna get 10 ABS 15 amps 20 amps

100 amps you're gonna have to buy a

controller that is going to be able to

convert whatever voltage and amperage is

coming from the panels to the amperage

and voltage that your batteries need so

for instance in this picture here the 75

is voltage meaning it can take an array

up to 75 volts so let's say 3 I don't

know a hundred and 25 watt panels and

the maximum amperage is 15 so it could

handle high voltage but it's not going

to be able 3 125 watt panels would be

exceeding the 15 amp rating so you would

need a larger controller there's a

controller that does 100 watts in 30

amps so you need to make sure that when

you purchase your controller you

purchase a controller that

is exactly matched to the array that

you're putting on your vote and this is

an important takeaway because many boat

owners come to us and say and I always

know why they're doing it but they're

they've been misled they say Jeff I only

want one controller on my boat I'm like

okay great and it sounds like it would

make sense why buy two things if you

only need one but the reality is the

controller that does double the amperage

right let's say if 75 15 + or 130 130

controller is not the same price as the

75 50 it's double the price because it

does double the amount of average so

it's not like you can buy the largest

controller on earth or the same price

that you can buy the smallest controller

on earth a controller is priced on the

average and the voltage that goes to it

so there is not a lot of savings for a

boat owner to say I'm gonna wire 10

solar panels or five solar panels into a

controller

you're not buying just one controller

versus five you're buying a controller

that is sized for five panels and

therefore it's gonna be a lot more

expensive than only one controller and

why that's important because then you

have to wonder well maybe if I have four

solar panels maybe I can put two on port

two on starboard and have redundancy and

have two controllers and two controllers

is probably going to be just slightly

more money than one large controller and

then you have your port panels and your

starboard panels that if you lose a

controller you'd only lose half of your

array not the whole array and then the

last takeaway is that you've got to ask

yourself what type of battery bank

capacity do you have on your boat is

your battery bank flooded lead-acid is

it gel lit acid is it AGM LED acid is it

lithium is it Firefly is it custom

and so there are controllers like the

one that I'm going to show you here the

75 15 where you can actually go in there

and set the parameters to do whatever

profile of battery chemistry you want

and if you have $100 inexpensive battery

it doesn't really maybe matter to you

but if you bought a battery bank for

$1,000 or $2,000 or $500 you might be

better suited with having a controller

that is perfectly specify the

specifications for that controller are

meant to handle the exact betting

battery chemistry that you have on your

boat so for instance we're selling a lot

of Firefly batteries these days some

owners are buying controllers you can go

into that controller and via USB you can

go in there and say I want to create a

custom profile and I create a custom

profile for the Firefly battery so I

will charge that battery exactly the

once though the way it wants to be

charged and why that's important is

because over time remember your solar

panel is going to be charging that

battery everyday and if you have

something that is either chronically

under charging a battery or chronically

overcharging a battery even by a little

bit you do that every day for the whole

year

you could either under charge and

shorten the battery life if you

overcharge you're gonna dramatically

shorten your battery life and so it's a

way to make sure that your batteries you

have the maximum life of your batteries

by having the right charged voltages

here's another controller that's one of

the controllers I have on my boat it's

very compact it's about maybe 10

centimeters long by 5 centimeters high

by 2 centimeters wide

so these controllers are not these

massive battery chargers that we have on

our boat or inverters these are tiny

little devices the other one that I was

showing you is that the m75 15 is about

this big so on my boat because I wanted

to harness all the energy from the Sun

and I wanted to make sure that I got

everything I installed one controller

per panel and on my boat I have a

sailboat and I have all these various

shading situations that could happen

because of the boom the radar pole the

back stays there's all of his different

things that shave my paddle differently

I decided that whatever happened

so one panel that might be shaded my

other panel is going to be perfectly

optimized to its controller and so it

allows me to harness more energy from

the Sun and this is what it actually

looks on my boat I've got four

controllers you can barely see the one

at the bottom four controllers going to

a fuse block and then the fuse block

going to the battery

so as gareth is gonna start prepping

himself right now i'm just gonna open

the floor while he just gets ready does

any of you have any questions or

anything about what i've talked about

before we start looking at the demo yeah

I passed the MC for cable ground before

and plugs you can have a look at them

now instead of just showing how they

connect and disconnect it's very simple

crimp them strip the cable back and

crimp the connections on so best to use

a sharp knife and obviously when you're

using a sharp knife be careful that you

keep your fingers clear of it this

actually is that you can you can feed

the cable right through so obviously you

don't want to strip it back that full

distance you just want to get enough to

get under the crimping part which is

this first sort of quarter inch on solid

bit here and then same for the male in

there it's this one here you can feed

the cable up more but you just it only

has to really get under the connection

there

and when you're doing this try not to

like some people may use side cutters

and go like that but then you end up

damaging right around that base where

you've cut and the strands if you happen

to catch them they can snap off really

easy it can create a Hotpoint and soul

where it's not so bad but just yeah in

any crimping situation try to use a

knife and keep away from the cause as

such so it goes there sit that in and

then it's a bit easier with these ons

here they don't quite fit into the

crimper so just normally push them in a

little bit with by hand

give it

get that ready and then slider them so

the sheathing goes right to the edge of

where the crimps going to happen come

down check the connection

nice and tight give it a time to make

sure they were all color coded but this

is yeah this is specific for these

crimps so this tool yeah I don't know

what it cost but it's an actual MC for

like crimper so you can't use one of the

standard color crimpers and then these

connectors there's a little rubber

grommet inside if you take that apart so

when you tighten this down it clamps

down and that creates the waterproofing

from any ingress coming in that way so

you can leave that on when you're

pushing this in I'll push it in and then

you can hear a tiny click that's when

it's directly and a few only put it in

halfway and tighten this up that's

possible in the connection when you put

them together that it's not the other

ends not going to connect properly and

you'll have a bad connection so don't

know if you can

it's not really a clique it's more of

you can just feel it release and get

caught in there and then tighten that up

so it's very watertight get a tug and

yeah so that's basically its yeah it's

more the feeling of when you push it in

and pull it before you tighten this up

because then you you'll know if you can

pull it back out then it hasn't gone

completely and yeah that's I'll do the

other one with solar panels as well how

the positive and negative plugs are

sitting on them a lot of people think

it's convenient to plug them in to carry

it if you've been go and put that solar

panel and a son that's shorted so yeah

definitely don't do that when you take

if you do take them off just store them

don't plug the ins into each other

because you didn't need to get a new

solar panel

yeah

just slide it in so that's hard up see

how these flare out a little bit

that won't fit in the crimping tool so

just pinch that down again can be a

little bit finicky when you first start

doing these of trying to use only two

hands to get it to sit in there properly

and everything cut it down

good crimp again if you crimping up here

you've obviously got it in the wrong

part of the crimper and then that'll

prevent it from clipping and clicking

improperly into the connector so make

sure you've only crimped down on the the

securing part of the the pin there and

so the other end

don't crimp two of the same ones on if

you because you won't be able to plug

your panel in so same deal just put that

on and that Cook beer yes so now I won't

I won't be able to pull that out so yeah

with those pins go

see on these pins you can see all those

little jagged but see that's what clicks

in and prevents it from being overly

pulled out again so the pin will be you

can cut it out and yeah basically start

again with a new pen connector there and

put it back in yeah no not if you've

pushed it right and then yeah so when

you have your panel up on the dodger you

just plug it in and when you disconnect

that so

as I said don't when you have a solar

panel don't when you go to store it

don't plug them into each other because

if you bring it back out into the

sunlight you'll just need a new panel

yeah so the best way to disconnect a

solar panel is cover it with a towel or

something so it's not doesn't have any

load trying to charge and yeah like

turning it

no but yeah you'd cover it before

plugging it back in as well because you

don't want yeah be fine as long as no

one plugs a man - yeah and then when

you're coming down the railing of your

bum knee or your dodger we use this

cable sock just to make it look nice

rather than having exposed cables and it

just goes around and tucks in and I see

if you get a heat gun on there they'll

actually fight ease it up a little bit

as well not the ins in it you can make

it look a little bit nicer to just

aesthetically or you can fold fold end

in there and put a cable tie around it

and yeah yeah featuring go there be a

little heat shrink on top it's more for

aesthetic purposes just so that people

the cabling or wiring on a boat yeah so

yes that's pretty much it for the solar

crimping and cabling on there I'll show

you just some of the other crimps for

your fusing and whatnot for inside the

boat or if you're doing any yeah

anything anywhere on the boat basically

we always use the heat shrink connectors

just to help against corrosion and yeah

sort of extend the life of your

connections so

stripping I can do it fairly well and no

I'm not damaging the cables by going

like this but someone that hasn't done

it before if I push them too tight pull

out you'll get some of the cause coming

off see the little strands and that's

obviously affecting the cable and you're

degrading the rating of it that it's

meant to carry yes so there's many

different types of strippers but this is

the one we have here today so it's 14

gauge cable so just put it in the 14

gauge thing crimp down and that there

won't damage any of the cause and side

and you can get at the correct distance

that you need to put inside the crimp

gun and anything with the connectors

yellow is 10 and 12 gauge blue is 14 and

16 gauge and readers 18 to 22 gauge so

you don't want to be putting 14 gauge

cable into a 12 10 connector because the

connections not going to be as it's

designed for so I stripped out a little

bit long there that I'll just cut it

down

so just a butt splice connector here

wrap the strands around just so there's

no strays so when you're pushing it in

they don't sort of flare up and not get

inside the actual tunnel of the

connector there and then these crimpers

are color coded so Red's for that the

small 18 to 22 blue is 14 and they

correspond with with the crimps and

yellow is 10 to 12 so do the 14 to 16

crimp it down this phone here is a

single crimp you can also get another

version of these crimpers that has

double crimp which is ideal because then

you have two points of connection give

it a tug to make sure it's all connected

correctly and then there's no point

buying a heat shrink connector if you

don't knock it down I've gone on to

numerous boats where people have them

but they don't have a gas torch or maybe

too scared not knowing if there's

diapers or something around

do this evenly because otherwise you can

scorch the cable and damage the actual

sheathing and it would it'll go black

and that's deteriorated the cable

surface goes into oil or get some kind

of grease on it over time that may

possibly affect the cable so now that's

gonna pass that around might still be a

little bit hot just like anything

there's no end you know III know I

wouldn't say it's an overkill but you're

certainly gonna buy that at multiples

what you charge for a nylon connector so

I'm an one point you got to ask yourself

it's diminishing returns all right I

think this is probably a good start

and you do be in a big wet location

forever that's too short of a wire it

should be much longer that's because

it's been cut and cut I mean the bilge

pump wiring is generally about at least

this long and you got to get it as high

as humanly possible and you're right

it's essential with a bilge pump

essential to use an absolutely heat

shrink connection and perfectly because

having 12 volts going into your bilge

with some metals are going to be

underwater you can have 12 volts going

to ground it is pretty much your whole

boat is grounded and so you can have

then a circuit in your boat and your

bilge so yeah a bilge pump wiring

absolutely has to be sealed and cannot

be laying in the bilge with open

connectors

Nigel Calder has stories of that bilge

pump float switch failing and causing a

keel to drop the boat's got all chewed

up so you cannot have a circuit in your

boat in the bills in the water because I

mean a lot of those water it's gonna be

underwater metals or they're pretty much

all grounded so it's very very serious

to have bilge wiring that is not sealed

not properly heat shrunk so that there's

no more moisture or water that can get

into that to complete the circuit

so if with the hatred connectors it also

matters exactly what crimpy using these

ones here basically a universal so I

could use it on the 12 10 I can use it

on the 16 18 and I can use it on the red

18 to 22 but when I crimp down with this

it actually penetrates through the heat

shrink so the middle is exposed there so

if it does get in that situation if it's

for a bilge pump you've used the eastern

connector but because it's the middle

has actually basically made it null and

void having heat shrink on it you knows

I'll just have a straight middle

criminal here so yeah make sure you

don't use the wrong tool for the

when I have on my boat that's an FTC

crimper ratcheted clipper that's made

for heat shrink insulation yes it will

never break some of the crimpers there's

such rough edges that may actually

pierce and actually caused the heat

shrink to actually be sliced open so

this ratchet crimper is designed by ftz

who also make a lot of heat shrink

connectors and it actually is kind of

like they'll notice the edges are you

know they're kind of round and smooth

right they're not jagged straight edges

and so it allows the crimp to be done

without actually severing the heat

shrink insulation yeah which those crimp

is that type of crimpers do because here

normally these are cheaper as well the

the type obviously because it's not

designed specifically for it people

think I don't want to spend $30 on a

crimper I'll get a $10 here so yeah

these crimp is here it's got the color

gauges there again for the different

size so this is the 10-12 crimp it down

it off

I clearly haven't used these thoughts

yes some of the barrels are shorter and

it varies from manufacturer manufacturer

it's hard to do a double crank on those

because sometimes the barrel slopes and

it slides so it's really it's it's even

true yeah so even though the price of

some of these crimpers can be up to $100

depending how many crimps you need to do

on your boat that would pay to get a bit

of a good pair cuz if you you want to

spend $20 and get up here like this yeah

not really doing yourself any favors by

trying to crimp patron connectors with

something that's going to damage them

over time this is one I have a my own

boat and it is tricky to use but over

time you get used to it and then it

never never breaks the seal on your each

ring so these this anchor one is

designed for the specific angkor lugs as

well these are if teased it but yeah you

can get pretty much identical lugs

evasive angkor and they're designed for

exactly that purpose coming now the lugs

on those but thank you yeah thanks

alright enjoy the rest of the show

thanks Karen that's right

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