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so without going too deep into this but  I want I always emphasize with  electrical there is no room for bravado  or macgyverism and you perfection is the  only sort of like being an accountant  good enough is never good enough as an  accountant it's a precise business being  an electrician is the same thing so it's  essential that every connection you do  has to be perfect if it isn't perfect  you have to redo it doing 90 percent of  your boat perfectly is irrelevant the 10  percent or is enough to make the  connection potentially be a source of  heat and a fire so with that it's really  essential to do it right and that's what  Gareth is gonna try to demonstrate today  and we're gonna be showing you with all  the tools that we brought so obviously  you're gonna be choosing a lot of  different sizes of panels and you've got  a lot of choice all of solar panels  being rigid or flexible are gonna have  what are called mc4 connectors mc4  connectors are connectors and we'll show  that that can be done and undone that  provide a really good seal to be outside  because at the end of the day think  about a solar panel on your boat is  gonna have some sort of connection to  interconnect the solar panel to the  cabling or the solar wiring those  cabling have to be done outside so it's  gonna be out in the elements for  instance on my boat I've had my solar  array install for five and a half years  and I have solar connections that are  out in the elements 365 days a year and  right now they're probably practically  underwater with the amount of water in  water we're getting and they're out  there and they've got to be able to  never corrode or so you've got to have a  really good seal and gareth is gonna be  showing that so when you're thinking  about doing a solar installation on your  boat there's gonna be what are all the  different things you're gonna be looking  at you're gonna be looking at obviously  having a solar panel or many solar  panels the terminals at the solar panel  are gonna be mc4 connectors and we're  going to be demonstrating that you  absolutely need to have what's called an  outdoor rated cable even though it's  only a gauge 10 cable the shield or the  mother shield but the god I'm just  capping here  the the jacket of the wire is actually  double sized on a marine cable so if you  look at a marine wire for solar you're  gonna look at the cable and you're gonna  think it looks like a gauge eight wire  but in reality the jacket is almost  double the size inside is only a gauge  10 and why that's relevant or is that  when you start installing on an MC 4  connector they're assuming that the wire  going into that connector is gonna be a  solar wire if it's a normal gauge 10  wire you'll never be able to make a good  seal so it's guaranteed water will get  in so the only way to guarantee a good  seal with using an MC 4 is to absolutely  use a solar wire going in that because  that is double jacketed cable and you'll  see we've got solar cabling down here  you'll see the difference it's a much  thicker jacket around the wire the other  thing too is obviously your solar panels  are on the outside you're gonna have to  find some sort of way to go inside the  boat and going inside the boat is gonna  have to be done some sort of way how are  you gonna do that you might put a cable  clamp  you might there's different blue seas  and different companies do these cable  systems where there's absolutely no what  you can even mount them on a deck and  it's a rubber that you drill a hole  through and as you screw it down it  tightens down so no water because you've  got to make sure obviously and  especially in this climate it's gonna  rain and if you've got a cable that you  just put Sikaflex to stop the water from  coming in that's not gonna work so you  need to have a really good idea and when  we do installations on it on all our  boat the boats that we deal with we  always make sure there's a drip loop so  as the water kind of like gets on the  cable and goes down we make sure that  the water goes back hits the bow goes  back inside we never run a cable  directly from a Bimini straight into a  cable clamp because what's gonna happen  is gonna become always constantly being  hit with rainwater that's gonna kind of  a dear to the cable as it goes down and  then you're just gonna be constantly  having water pushing trying to get in a  drip loop is a really good idea  inside the boat then you can change via  terminal block easily to gauge 10 wire  marine right which is gonna be less  money smaller and you can do that inside  on a terminal block but on the outside  of the boat and because the connection  is going to an MC for connection you  have to have solar wire that is gauge 10  the NIC thing that you're gonna have and  I'm going to show you that a little bit  later than a few slide is what's called  the controller there's two types of  controllers there's what's called PWM  controllers or MPPT controllers we  strongly advise that you use what's  called an MPPT controller MPPT  controllers are about nineteen eight  percent in efficient efficient ie you  lose about two percent at PWM is about  21 percent inefficient so you're gonna  lose if you buy a hundred watt solar  array and you have a PWM controller you  bought it off eBay and it's much cheaper  than MPPT and you think you scored a  deal  sorta like go to McDonald's I think why  would I ever buy more than a four dollar  meal I'm so smart well you're not  getting a full meal you're getting a  four dollar meal right so there's  reasons why you want to pay more and  your hundred watt solar array is  suddenly gonna give you only ever  maximum of maybe seventy nine ones  so you're just discarding twenty watts  off your solar rate because you chose at  PWM controller so it's essential and  I've got a lot of boat owners that have  an existing array have an existing PWM  and if they want to increase their  capacity for solar array the first thing  to do is just change the controller you  get suddenly a 25 percent gain of your  solar you go from 80 to 100 almost  instantly by just changing the  controller and the last bit and this is  absolutely critical is that when any  times you do a connection to a battery  you have to have a fuse connection at  the battery so you're controlling I'll  show or diagram your controller is going  to be connected to the battery and also  connect it to the solar panels there has  to be a fuse at the start of the circuit  and the start of the circuit is the  battery not the solar panel a solar  panel will never output more than it's  meant to a battery has m1  can well so if you remember there's  different choices like in our business  we've got about six different lines of  solar panels you know there's a rigid  and there's flexible and there's all  choices and within flexible if you look  at doing a and I'm not a canvas person  but there's ways of mounting a solar  panel on two different sorts of canvas  you can mount them with zippers velcro  grommets snaps some owners simply use  the grommets and they'll use a bungee  they don't want anything permanent  they're not really committed they take  it on take it off some powerboat owners  or even sell boats that have heart talks  are gonna use actually a self-adhesive  backing in the back of the panel they'll  actually glue them on so I've done that  on sea Ray's Tierra's grainy whites and  on sale boaters that actually have a  hard at the mini or a hard Dodger you  know the I think it start to go you know  that a hard Dodger some owners it's very  thin shell they'll actually glue their  solar panels with self-adhesive peel and  stick backing right onto the the Dodger  when it comes to wiring your solar  panels you're gonna have a choice  obviously if you have a single solar  panel it's pretty easy it's a single  solar panel to controller two batteries  but you might on your boat have two  pounds three pounds four panels assuming  you don't have shading right imagine  you're putting it on top of your Bimini  on your powerboat and there is no radar  mass higher and it's always gonna evenly  see the Sun you could wire your panels  either in series or in parallel but I  would prefer to see series because in  series at least the advantages the  amperage stays the same all the way to  the controller you're just gonna have a  higher voltage so if you've got four  panels are outputting twenty volts each  and you put them in series the voltage  sort of like to golf cards in series go  six volts plus six volts equals twelve  volts well you're gonna have 20 volts 20  volts 20 volts 20 volts you'll have 80  volts going on the cable and the  amperage is gonna stay the same  once it gets to the controller the  controller is going to modify the high  voltage bring it down to what the  battery needs which may be 13 volts and  then suddenly the amperage is gonna be  calculated so remember P equals VI so if  you bring the voltage down by 10 the  average is gonna go up by 10 right so  there's inverse correlation between  current and voltage I emphasize series  because it's a way to offset voltage  drop on a boat especially with DC  Circuit's the big issue that we have is  the further something is from the  battery the more you're gonna lose of  power and so if you can harness all that  energy and the energy that's at the  solar panel and bring it instantly to  the batteries without losing 5 or 10%  because the voltage drop why would you  do that and voltage drop is offset by  higher voltages so the higher the  voltage the better it is this is another  little schematic of what a typical solar  panel install looks like you see in this  instance on the left side there's a  positive a negative cable going to  positive and negative cable going to  positive and there's only two cables  coming back so that's the other  advantage of doing in this installation  you actually have only two wires going  to the bimini to the dogger wherever  you're bringing it and those two cables  are gonna actually bring three solar  panels down so it's one way to do that  and then you'll see as well there's  going to be two connections going to the  controller and then two connections  going to the batteries it's essential in  this diagram they did not put the fuse  at the right place the fuse is gonna  need to be right at the battery so it  can be anywhere in the circuit a fuse is  always located at the source of most  power if two batteries are connected in  parallel over a long distance you  actually need a fuse at both ends but in  distance because the solar panels are  only rated at whatever they're rated 100  watt panel will never give you 500 watts  it can never fail and give you more all  right it's only gonna fail in failure  it's not gonna fail to give you more the  battery has way more power than 100  so this cable might be only able to  handle 30 amps but if you have a dead  short it could actually there's no  resistance on a wire per se it could  maybe want to run a thousand apps on  that wire so it's essential to have a  fuse at the beginning of this circuit  located at the battery and also do not  be tempted to ever bring the MPPT  controller wiring to a switch or a panel  and put it on a breaker all charging  sources on a boat have to be directly  connected to the battery all you never  want to be able to disconnect a load or  charging circuit and have other loads  connected to it there's a lot of reason  I probably takes me ten minutes  explain but the end result is all  Chargers on your boat alternator battery  charger methanol fuel cell whatever it  is Solar controller wind turbine all of  those go to a place called the untwist  positive distribution or directly to the  battery if you don't have a lot of  circuits so that no matter what you turn  the switch on or off the solar panel is  still connected to the battery  the next thing is I'm showing you a  little bit of diagram and you'll see  that cable you can buy MC for cables  connected directly onto the jacket and  the large outdoor rated solar wiring  it's all black which is nice because it  makes it neater honestly white cabling  on your boat or bad or yellow it's not  necessarily what you want to see on the  outside then what you have is you've got  mc4 connectors and I've got some on the  table and that's what character is gonna  be demonstrating demonstrating how to  actually install that connector onto a  solar cable and here you've got and and  this is key  luckily the solar panels don't have two  male connections or two female  connections it's a male and a female  meaning once you've actually ride the  right polarity as you remove on and off  the panel you'll never have to worry  about mix matching those connectors male  will only ever go on female and female  ever go on man so it's kind of foolproof  right and so it makes it easy for  removing or reinstalling the panel you  have two polarities of cables that are  going directly out of the panel and when  you connect on to the controller you're  gonna have also opposite polarity so you  can never mix and match because you  would not want to mix positive to  negative or negative to positive that  would blow up the panel and that's  happened to some of our owners that  actually didn't themselves and they're  inverted the polarity installing it and  the panel was damaged and they had to  buy another pen I talked about this a  little bit earlier there's a significant  difference between a pwm controller an  MPPT controller an MPPT controller is  sort of like a smart battery charger and  why that's important is because the Sun  is going to output more at noon than in  the morning and your batteries might be  full by one o'clock the controller  actually knows what the battery voltage  is and it knows what it's been doing  over time sort of like a battery charger  and it's constantly adjusting the  voltage  to optimally charge that battery because  the Sun might be outputting way more  voltage than the battery needs at any  given time like on my boat I have six  controllers on my boat and my batteries  in the summer might be charged with the  battery charger and each of the  controllers has to say wait stop I don't  need to do anything the batteries are  full and even though it's noon and the  sun is shining that's gonna say you know  what we don't need to convert solar  power to battery power let's open the  circuit and we're not gonna harness the  Sun energy right now so it's constantly  adjusting the output to the battery  depending on what the battery needs  here's an example of a controller  seventy-five fifteen the other thing  when you buy a controller remember that  not all controllers are the same there  are really four things you're gonna look  for when you buy a controller one is  going to be what's my battery bank size  that voltage do I have a 24 volt boat 12  Volvo 32 volt boat 48 volt boat it's  possible you're going to decide a  controller that's matched to your  battery bank nominal voltage then you're  gonna have to say depending on the size  of array that I have what is the maximum  amperage that I will have coming not  from the solar panels but after it  leaves the controller for the batteries  am I gonna get 10 ABS 15 amps 20 amps  100 amps you're gonna have to buy a  controller that is going to be able to  convert whatever voltage and amperage is  coming from the panels to the amperage  and voltage that your batteries need so  for instance in this picture here the 75  is voltage meaning it can take an array  up to 75 volts so let's say 3 I don't  know a hundred and 25 watt panels and  the maximum amperage is 15 so it could  handle high voltage but it's not going  to be able 3 125 watt panels would be  exceeding the 15 amp rating so you would  need a larger controller there's a  controller that does 100 watts in 30  amps so you need to make sure that when  you purchase your controller you  purchase a controller that  is exactly matched to the array that  you're putting on your vote and this is  an important takeaway because many boat  owners come to us and say and I always  know why they're doing it but they're  they've been misled they say Jeff I only  want one controller on my boat I'm like  okay great and it sounds like it would  make sense why buy two things if you  only need one but the reality is the  controller that does double the amperage  right let's say if 75 15 + or 130 130  controller is not the same price as the  75 50 it's double the price because it  does double the amount of average so  it's not like you can buy the largest  controller on earth or the same price  that you can buy the smallest controller  on earth a controller is priced on the  average and the voltage that goes to it  so there is not a lot of savings for a  boat owner to say I'm gonna wire 10  solar panels or five solar panels into a  controller  you're not buying just one controller  versus five you're buying a controller  that is sized for five panels and  therefore it's gonna be a lot more  expensive than only one controller and  why that's important because then you  have to wonder well maybe if I have four  solar panels maybe I can put two on port  two on starboard and have redundancy and  have two controllers and two controllers  is probably going to be just slightly  more money than one large controller and  then you have your port panels and your  starboard panels that if you lose a  controller you'd only lose half of your  array not the whole array and then the  last takeaway is that you've got to ask  yourself what type of battery bank  capacity do you have on your boat is  your battery bank flooded lead-acid is  it gel lit acid is it AGM LED acid is it  lithium is it Firefly is it custom  and so there are controllers like the  one that I'm going to show you here the  75 15 where you can actually go in there  and set the parameters to do whatever  profile of battery chemistry you want  and if you have $100 inexpensive battery  it doesn't really maybe matter to you  but if you bought a battery bank for  $1,000 or $2,000 or $500 you might be  better suited with having a controller  that is perfectly specify the  specifications for that controller are  meant to handle the exact betting  battery chemistry that you have on your  boat so for instance we're selling a lot  of Firefly batteries these days some  owners are buying controllers you can go  into that controller and via USB you can  go in there and say I want to create a  custom profile and I create a custom  profile for the Firefly battery so I  will charge that battery exactly the  once though the way it wants to be  charged and why that's important is  because over time remember your solar  panel is going to be charging that  battery everyday and if you have  something that is either chronically  under charging a battery or chronically  overcharging a battery even by a little  bit you do that every day for the whole  year  you could either under charge and  shorten the battery life if you  overcharge you're gonna dramatically  shorten your battery life and so it's a  way to make sure that your batteries you  have the maximum life of your batteries  by having the right charged voltages  here's another controller that's one of  the controllers I have on my boat it's  very compact it's about maybe 10  centimeters long by 5 centimeters high  by 2 centimeters wide  so these controllers are not these  massive battery chargers that we have on  our boat or inverters these are tiny  little devices the other one that I was  showing you is that the m75 15 is about  this big so on my boat because I wanted  to harness all the energy from the Sun  and I wanted to make sure that I got  everything I installed one controller  per panel and on my boat I have a  sailboat and I have all these various  shading situations that could happen  because of the boom the radar pole the  back stays there's all of his different  things that shave my paddle differently  I decided that whatever happened  so one panel that might be shaded my  other panel is going to be perfectly  optimized to its controller and so it  allows me to harness more energy from  the Sun and this is what it actually  looks on my boat I've got four  controllers you can barely see the one  at the bottom four controllers going to  a fuse block and then the fuse block  going to the battery  so as gareth is gonna start prepping  himself right now i'm just gonna open  the floor while he just gets ready does  any of you have any questions or  anything about what i've talked about  before we start looking at the demo yeah  I passed the MC for cable ground before  and plugs you can have a look at them  now instead of just showing how they  connect and disconnect it's very simple  crimp them strip the cable back and  crimp the connections on so best to use  a sharp knife and obviously when you're  using a sharp knife be careful that you  keep your fingers clear of it this  actually is that you can you can feed  the cable right through so obviously you  don't want to strip it back that full  distance you just want to get enough to  get under the crimping part which is  this first sort of quarter inch on solid  bit here and then same for the male in  there it's this one here you can feed  the cable up more but you just it only  has to really get under the connection  there  and when you're doing this try not to  like some people may use side cutters  and go like that but then you end up  damaging right around that base where  you've cut and the strands if you happen  to catch them they can snap off really  easy it can create a Hotpoint and soul  where it's not so bad but just yeah in  any crimping situation try to use a  knife and keep away from the cause as  such so it goes there sit that in and  then it's a bit easier with these ons  here they don't quite fit into the  crimper so just normally push them in a  little bit with by hand  give it  get that ready and then slider them so  the sheathing goes right to the edge of  where the crimps going to happen come  down check the connection  nice and tight give it a time to make  sure they were all color coded but this  is yeah this is specific for these  crimps so this tool yeah I don't know  what it cost but it's an actual MC for  like crimper so you can't use one of the  standard color crimpers and then these  connectors there's a little rubber  grommet inside if you take that apart so  when you tighten this down it clamps  down and that creates the waterproofing  from any ingress coming in that way so  you can leave that on when you're  pushing this in I'll push it in and then  you can hear a tiny click that's when  it's directly and a few only put it in  halfway and tighten this up that's  possible in the connection when you put  them together that it's not the other  ends not going to connect properly and  you'll have a bad connection so don't  know if you can  it's not really a clique it's more of  you can just feel it release and get  caught in there and then tighten that up  so it's very watertight get a tug and  yeah so that's basically its yeah it's  more the feeling of when you push it in  and pull it before you tighten this up  because then you you'll know if you can  pull it back out then it hasn't gone  completely and yeah that's I'll do the  other one with solar panels as well how  the positive and negative plugs are  sitting on them a lot of people think  it's convenient to plug them in to carry  it if you've been go and put that solar  panel and a son that's shorted so yeah  definitely don't do that when you take  if you do take them off just store them  don't plug the ins into each other  because you didn't need to get a new  solar panel  yeah  just slide it in so that's hard up see  how these flare out a little bit  that won't fit in the crimping tool so  just pinch that down again can be a  little bit finicky when you first start  doing these of trying to use only two  hands to get it to sit in there properly  and everything cut it down  good crimp again if you crimping up here  you've obviously got it in the wrong  part of the crimper and then that'll  prevent it from clipping and clicking  improperly into the connector so make  sure you've only crimped down on the the  securing part of the the pin there and  so the other end  don't crimp two of the same ones on if  you because you won't be able to plug  your panel in so same deal just put that  on and that Cook beer yes so now I won't  I won't be able to pull that out so yeah  with those pins go  see on these pins you can see all those  little jagged but see that's what clicks  in and prevents it from being overly  pulled out again so the pin will be you  can cut it out and yeah basically start  again with a new pen connector there and  put it back in yeah no not if you've  pushed it right and then yeah so when  you have your panel up on the dodger you  just plug it in and when you disconnect  that so  as I said don't when you have a solar  panel don't when you go to store it  don't plug them into each other because  if you bring it back out into the  sunlight you'll just need a new panel  yeah so the best way to disconnect a  solar panel is cover it with a towel or  something so it's not doesn't have any  load trying to charge and yeah like  turning it  no but yeah you'd cover it before  plugging it back in as well because you  don't want yeah be fine as long as no  one plugs a man - yeah and then when  you're coming down the railing of your  bum knee or your dodger we use this  cable sock just to make it look nice  rather than having exposed cables and it  just goes around and tucks in and I see  if you get a heat gun on there they'll  actually fight ease it up a little bit  as well not the ins in it you can make  it look a little bit nicer to just  aesthetically or you can fold fold end  in there and put a cable tie around it  and yeah yeah featuring go there be a  little heat shrink on top it's more for  aesthetic purposes just so that people  the cabling or wiring on a boat yeah so  yes that's pretty much it for the solar  crimping and cabling on there I'll show  you just some of the other crimps for  your fusing and whatnot for inside the  boat or if you're doing any yeah  anything anywhere on the boat basically  we always use the heat shrink connectors  just to help against corrosion and yeah  sort of extend the life of your  connections so  stripping I can do it fairly well and no  I'm not damaging the cables by going  like this but someone that hasn't done  it before if I push them too tight pull  out you'll get some of the cause coming  off see the little strands and that's  obviously affecting the cable and you're  degrading the rating of it that it's  meant to carry yes so there's many  different types of strippers but this is  the one we have here today so it's 14  gauge cable so just put it in the 14  gauge thing crimp down and that there  won't damage any of the cause and side  and you can get at the correct distance  that you need to put inside the crimp  gun and anything with the connectors  yellow is 10 and 12 gauge blue is 14 and  16 gauge and readers 18 to 22 gauge so  you don't want to be putting 14 gauge  cable into a 12 10 connector because the  connections not going to be as it's  designed for so I stripped out a little  bit long there that I'll just cut it  down  so just a butt splice connector here  wrap the strands around just so there's  no strays so when you're pushing it in  they don't sort of flare up and not get  inside the actual tunnel of the  connector there and then these crimpers  are color coded so Red's for that the  small 18 to 22 blue is 14 and they  correspond with with the crimps and  yellow is 10 to 12 so do the 14 to 16  crimp it down this phone here is a  single crimp you can also get another  version of these crimpers that has  double crimp which is ideal because then  you have two points of connection give  it a tug to make sure it's all connected  correctly and then there's no point  buying a heat shrink connector if you  don't knock it down I've gone on to  numerous boats where people have them  but they don't have a gas torch or maybe  too scared not knowing if there's  diapers or something around  do this evenly because otherwise you can  scorch the cable and damage the actual  sheathing and it would it'll go black  and that's deteriorated the cable  surface goes into oil or get some kind  of grease on it over time that may  possibly affect the cable so now that's  gonna pass that around might still be a  little bit hot just like anything  there's no end you know III know I  wouldn't say it's an overkill but you're  certainly gonna buy that at multiples  what you charge for a nylon connector so  I'm an one point you got to ask yourself  it's diminishing returns all right I  think this is probably a good start  and you do be in a big wet location  forever that's too short of a wire it  should be much longer that's because  it's been cut and cut I mean the bilge  pump wiring is generally about at least  this long and you got to get it as high  as humanly possible and you're right  it's essential with a bilge pump  essential to use an absolutely heat  shrink connection and perfectly because  having 12 volts going into your bilge  with some metals are going to be  underwater you can have 12 volts going  to ground it is pretty much your whole  boat is grounded and so you can have  then a circuit in your boat and your  bilge so yeah a bilge pump wiring  absolutely has to be sealed and cannot  be laying in the bilge with open  connectors  Nigel Calder has stories of that bilge  pump float switch failing and causing a  keel to drop the boat's got all chewed  up so you cannot have a circuit in your  boat in the bills in the water because I  mean a lot of those water it's gonna be  underwater metals or they're pretty much  all grounded so it's very very serious  to have bilge wiring that is not sealed  not properly heat shrunk so that there's  no more moisture or water that can get  into that to complete the circuit  so if with the hatred connectors it also  matters exactly what crimpy using these  ones here basically a universal so I  could use it on the 12 10 I can use it  on the 16 18 and I can use it on the red  18 to 22 but when I crimp down with this  it actually penetrates through the heat  shrink so the middle is exposed there so  if it does get in that situation if it's  for a bilge pump you've used the eastern  connector but because it's the middle  has actually basically made it null and  void having heat shrink on it you knows  I'll just have a straight middle  criminal here so yeah make sure you  don't use the wrong tool for the  when I have on my boat that's an FTC  crimper ratcheted clipper that's made  for heat shrink insulation yes it will  never break some of the crimpers there's  such rough edges that may actually  pierce and actually caused the heat  shrink to actually be sliced open so  this ratchet crimper is designed by ftz  who also make a lot of heat shrink  connectors and it actually is kind of  like they'll notice the edges are you  know they're kind of round and smooth  right they're not jagged straight edges  and so it allows the crimp to be done  without actually severing the heat  shrink insulation yeah which those crimp  is that type of crimpers do because here  normally these are cheaper as well the  the type obviously because it's not  designed specifically for it people  think I don't want to spend $30 on a  crimper I'll get a $10 here so yeah  these crimp is here it's got the color  gauges there again for the different  size so this is the 10-12 crimp it down  it off  I clearly haven't used these thoughts  yes some of the barrels are shorter and  it varies from manufacturer manufacturer  it's hard to do a double crank on those  because sometimes the barrel slopes and  it slides so it's really it's it's even  true yeah so even though the price of  some of these crimpers can be up to $100  depending how many crimps you need to do  on your boat that would pay to get a bit  of a good pair cuz if you you want to  spend $20 and get up here like this yeah  not really doing yourself any favors by  trying to crimp patron connectors with  something that's going to damage them  over time this is one I have a my own  boat and it is tricky to use but over  time you get used to it and then it  never never breaks the seal on your each  ring so these this anchor one is  designed for the specific angkor lugs as  well these are if teased it but yeah you  can get pretty much identical lugs  evasive angkor and they're designed for  exactly that purpose coming now the lugs  on those but thank you yeah thanks  alright enjoy the rest of the show  thanks Karen that's right