Transcript is auto-generated.
so here's an example of that
corrosion you can see it's a terminal
open-ended terminal right no heat shrink
and over time the wires simply literally
disintegrated and disconnected itself
now you know if it's the small appliance
like I don't know like a light that's
just a nuisance right well depends what
type of light all right if it's just a
light in your cabin no big deal but if
it's a nav light that could be pretty
serious
it's a bilge pump that's pretty damn
serious so again you know if you have
something you always want to be able to
depend on it and nothing drives us more
crazy generally than intermittent
problems or things that stopped working
randomly right so that would be
something that why you should think
about insulation and making sure that
over time corrosion doesn't eat the wire
way so what's your formula for success
if you're gonna actually do crimps on
board the first thing is you've got to
choose proper marine wiring on votes
some owners especially more legacy boats
the worst case would be solid wire
that's and you can find that on older
boats that had AC systems added on to
them so where that's where you have a
solid strand wire right like literally
house wiring and you've got that from
boats from the 70s and 80s where
originally they didn't have AC on board
and some house electrician came on board
and just simply recreated what would
happen in a house on a boat and so
you're gonna have solid core AC wire if
you have that on board and that's
generally a do-it-yourself you really
have to be concerned because over time
especially with boats because of
vibration there's there is definitely a
possibility where that wire is actually
going to leave shear off right between
winter and then you're gonna have this
kind of on-off on-off on-off connection
coming on and that could be a cause for
fire the other thing too that you've got
before I forget on on marine wiring you
also want to make sure that you have
fine so it's multi strand
right and it's tint now a lot of votes
even recently built both are using
especially in the larger cabling they're
using non tin cabling and you'll some
people call it well you see it it's
actually it comes from the application
of welding wire really stiff wire the
jacket is actually and we'll talk about
that a little bit later the jacket might
not be appropriate so something to think
about well I'm going to go through them
one by one a little bit later on anyway
so I don't want to spend too much time
you've got you want to make sure you
choose the right terminals right so the
right terminals if you've got a really
shitty terminal and the terminal is like
five cents and it looks terrible and it
just you just feel it no matter what you
do to that terminal and how you do the
connection it's just not gonna give you
the right thing right and you always
want to what I always recommend to other
owners and I certainly do a board my own
boat is when I think about my time
invested in doing something on my boat
and all the things I have to do
constantly and the list is always adding
I always tell myself do I want to redo
that in five or 10 years do I want to
recommand redo this crimp and take a
short cut now so that I actually have to
come and redo that crimp five to ten
years from now and for me the answer is
no because I still always have more
stuff looking ahead and so when I do
something I don't want to always have to
look behind and worry about something
that in relatively short term just
happened five or ten years ago
I don't mind revisiting something much
later on but you want to give yourself
enough horizon so that you don't have to
constantly redo something that you just
recently did we'll talk about a little
bit about adhesive line tubing so that's
kind of heat shrink right and how you
prevent corrosion from happening at the
joint between terminal and a wire the
right tools for the job and then the
right technique for the job okay so this
would be a picture of you know a little
bit some maybe bad connection right this
is a bonding system on one boat on the
left hand side and on the right hand
side that's a client that decided to
expand a terminal strip by putting a
bunch of terminals to a not putting
electrical tape in between
didn't even bother actually heat
shrinking the terminals and they're
about buck or two each so he bought not
he bought heat shrink terminals but
never applied heat to actually make them
you know corrosion proof so again I
actually see that quite often a lot of
do-it-yourselfers or even so-called pros
are gonna be using the right gear but
they're not actually gonna be using the
right technique to actually make use of
the proper terminal alright so if you're
choosing marine wine what are the things
you should look at and why why does it
matter it matters because first of all
with marine wiring you can actually have
you're gonna have different colors to
mean different things and sure everyone
could drive on the right or the left
side of the road you could drive home in
Reverse if you wanted to you could drive
in Reverse on the right side of the road
if you felt like it and all that road
would still lead you back home and
that's the philosophy that some people
have is like well a wires a wire really
what does the jacket mean it's what I
intend to do with the wire that matters
and I'm gonna wire my whole boat in
black and that works it does work it
really does but the problem with that is
you need to know what each wire does and
if it ever becomes disconnected or
someone else comes and has a look at it
the if they ever get them reversed and
they don't get it reversed under no load
so no voltage they do the connection
they turn a switch on and then suddenly
you know they don't have the ability of
disconnecting or they're not there to
see what's happening your boats gonna
there's a high probability you're gonna
have serious damage the wires gonna melt
the insulation of the jacket is gonna
melt it's gonna be a dead short right
and that would be really serious so
that's why the standardization of colors
is really good different colors for
different meanings and if you buy marine
grade wiring you can easily get that the
other thing too is what I was talking
about multi strand so when you think
about welding cable it's pretty rigid
but if you take fine multi strand
cabling you'll see it's really malleable
you can really and so on a boat when the
engine is running you've got a lot of
vibration and so
or at seas so that's the advantage of
having marine wiring also it's flexible
for install the big thing too that most
people is underappreciated is that
welding wire for example the jacket of a
welding wire is actually not oil proof
and that's actually I was on a boat
three years ago where the boat had nice
welding wire properly laid up against
the bulkhead cabin really nice all held
in place and above that there was raker
fuel filters and one of the rig are few
filters leaked happens right I mean they
delete sometimes the leak landed on the
welding cable and the welds and cable
where the leak landed the jacket melted
off so he had two wires running side by
side luckily they were well supported
because both wires were completely bare
norm or a kid on the wire and they were
a positive negative going to an engine I
unfused so if they would have ever
touched the boat would be gone I mean
there's no it being like a fire wire and
so when you have welding wire on board
make sure that it will never be exposed
to any type of oils or fuel okay and
then obviously because the wire is
tinned it's it's better at inhibiting
corrosion than welding wire which is
simply bare copper all right this is
another example of someone not being
able to fit you know a large gauge wire
into a terminal right so they've got it
gauge ten twenty or ten twelve connector
on a 20 amp breaker and that cable is
probably probably looks like a gauge
eight and so what they did is they fit
whatever strands they could fit and you
can notice that cable or wires actually
solid strand pretty much not solid but
it's not certainly marine you can see
the strands are way too big and so they
just fit what they can and this is how I
found it on one of the boats so that
would be unacceptable absolutely
especially under load
all right so when it comes to choosing
the right terminal for doing an
electrical job you want to choose the
right right type of terminal for the job
right like you know are you going to be
using a ring connector is it a spade is
it a butt connector is it a disconnect
and the other thing you want to do is
you actually want to have the right size
right especially for a ring or even for
Spain and fork for the right screw type
right because there's going to be
different sizes so you don't want to
have a gauge you know number 10 if the
faster that you're going to be using is
or a 5/16 ring on a number 10 screw and
I see that all the times they'll put the
screw in and they'll cinch it down and
it'll get just a little bit top edge and
that's going to be sufficient yes it
works I'm not saying it doesn't work
under load but it's not right and it
could be a problem point okay the other
thing you've got to ask yourself is what
type of terminals am I going to use am I
going to use heat-shrink terminals or am
I going to use nylon terminals right
nylon terminals obviously offer come at
a better price point but they don't
offer there's no insulation for heat
shrink so you can't make it a completely
sealed connector so that's a trade-off
and as a boat owner you got to decide
you know am i wanting to risk erosion on
this connection over time you know five
ten fifteen twenty years from now and
that's or do you simply do heat shrink
and pretty much forget about it
so those are the different types of
terminals you can choose these are
pictures of what happens on loose
connections that's a loose Fork
connection on a neutral bus on the right
and on the left hand side that's a
volume our electrical outlet where the
connections are simply plugged in and it
was a loose connection on the neutral so
all right what about a deist like heat
shrink well the reason why you do it is
to offset corrosion normally I would
suggest that you buy you know if you're
gonna do probably yellow and red would
be better than yellow and or black and
red black in AC means death and indeed
see it means benign so a byc has been
shifting to not use black on DC for that
reason because it's pretty obvious when
you see black to odd that it's probably
not AC wiring but if you've got a number
8 gauge or number six gauge or a number
10 gauge is it a DC wire or is it an AC
water it couldn't really be both and
then it's contacts that makes you figure
out what it is but really one would kill
you and the other one is like touching
your engine alright so they're so
completely different in terms of their
consequences that a Bui C has been
shifting to yellow for DC so I encourage
you if you're buying heat shrink and you
want to color code your terminals make
sure you put yellow on the DC grounds
right the DC connections and then put
positive as red you want to use heat to
properly shrink down the insulation like
I was saying not everyone knows that
even if you buy a heat shrink connector
the properties of prohibiting or
preventing corrosion are only delivered
if you actually shrink down the heat
shrink itself with a heat gun it might
be a little butane torch with scale
right because it could burn you got to
know what you're doing but he got his
good take slower he torches faster but
you could have it you gotta have a right
distance right so that you don't char
the terminal or the wiring and then also
what knowing what the shrink ratio is
right because now all you trink are the
same some are dual walls some aren't and
the other advantage to with heat shrink
is it actually is another really good
connection point so it as if further
makes it harder for that connection to
get undone these are examples of what
happens on a bad crimp so the terminals
themselves were really good on the
circuit breakers they weren't loose or
anything and you can see the wire
actually melted off like it's some of
the wires actually were gone like it's
so much current going through it so much
heat that the wire actually melts off
so again depending on the make of your
boat and how everything is closed by
that heat when it's generated can be
pretty problematic and that's what
happens with AC shore power receptacles
you know generally where they are
they're surrounded in a fiberglass right
because it's a metal enclosure but
everywhere where that normally is
mounted is wood or fiberglass and as
that connection gets really hot it
actually ignites the fiberglass around
it and then the boat just keeps going
alright so I brought different tools and
we've got different tools I'm not sure
if we do it on this table or probably
this table over here different tools
that are the right types of tools for
the job I would say that the first thing
that you're probably gonna want is to
get what's called a wire stripper of
some sort there's different tools you
can see I've got I brought another one
here there's different models right
everyone's gonna have something that
feels right to them
Romeo has a certain way of doing it
there's not a one-size-fits-all solution
for wire strippers I like this one the
other one here on the left is pretty
popular some people like the the one on
the right it's really up to you what's
important we'll talk about the technique
is making sure the end result is right
you don't want to cut any strands right
you don't want to lose and it's not
acceptable that you say oh well most of
them are there it's fine you just don't
want to lose if you're taking a jacket
insulation jacket off a wire and you're
seeing a lot of strands come out on your
head you should probably redo the end
cut it off again and start over to make
sure that that wire is completely
integral when you're doing in doing the
terminal
looking at crimpers there's again a wide
selection I'm showing two examples I
have one here which Western Marine lend
us a bunch we have two or three of them
here and this is actually probably the
easiest and safest no-brainer way of
doing a crimp so if you're thinking of
tackling an electrical project on your
boat I mean this is not as cheap as some
of the tools out there but this
ratcheting crimp is always going to make
sure that for every single size of
terminal you're gonna have the right
pressure on that on that terminal and on
the bigger jobs like you know the ones
that have to go through code and whatnot
which is not at the smaller boat market
but like real boats you actually have to
use this tool you can't do it any other
way because this guarantees the right
crimp every time the other ones are
really something that happens over time
through experience so I would say if
you're not an expert at crimping this is
probably one way to offset lack of
experience would be using a tool like
that this is a from anchor I've got at
the end you can come and see when we're
going to be doing the demos and Romeo is
gonna be doing some of the wire crimping
you can see I've got a bunch of these
crimpers so you can have a look at that
okay anchor is not the only one that
does it but we like it we use it
the idea is you basically want to have a
ratcheting crimper okay yeah
pardon welding rod
a welding wire a welding wire is is a
sort of wire that you'll find on most
boats and it's a wire that is built
specifically for welders in mind
well there's use electrical wire to
actually weld and it's to deliver power
when they're actually welding and the
one thing that's maybe for not really
considered oh yeah you're that yeah
there's an example of welding wire and
actually this is the one that you can
come have a look this is the one where
the client actually put rescue tape this
is the wire that melted off from diesel
fuel I kept it because it's just so
unbelievable and what you got to
remember is when a welder buys a cable
for welding he never thinks he's not
investing you know his thing that is
honey I bought the cables are gonna be
good for 20 years I'm so happy I
invested in them I'll never have to buy
another pair of welding cables again you
know they buy the cable after a year
they're gonna buy another cable but on a
boat whatever you put on a boat you're
not changing your wiring every 20 every
year you're changing it maybe never it
might be there for 30 40 50 years right
boats aren't discarded after five years
or ten years they've got a long history
right a long life so the problem is when
you take a short cut and you use welding
wire and the reason you do that is
because the cost is so good the builders
are gonna use them because you're trying
to save pennies that's what it is
and that's fine but if you have that you
have to know its limitations so if
you've got welding wire and you can see
it Sun tint right so it means that it's
gonna it's copper it's gonna oxide and
then when it's cost rise is going to
provide more resistance you want to make
sure that you take all the other extra
steps to make sure that that wire is not
gonna see any water limit the moisture
that it sees closed-ended connectors all
these different things so that you don't
have corrosion okay so the technique
that Romeo is going to do when looking
at doing terminals is first of all you
got to make a decision for you what's
your budget and what's the application
you're doing are you going to go with a
nylon term
or a he drinker role in our business we
use Dietrich everything for me and it's
a question it's a question that every
one of us has to answer it's not worth
for me doing a connection that in five
ten or fifteen or twenty years is gonna
come apart for me whatever step I do
forward I want to make sure that I don't
go back but that's my choice okay so all
of us have to make that decision for
ourselves the other thing that's really
important and you see that a lot and
this is a common mistake the worst is
actually to take too little of the
jacket insulation so you put the wire
into the terminal and you're actually
crimping on the insulation not on the
wire itself on the metal so you can have
a really bad cream or a partial crimp
because realistically the metal the
metal connection that's supposed to
happen is actually gonna have part of
the insulation in there and so that
could be really hazardous so that's one
thing and the other thing too is having
to tool it like you were moving too much
of the jacket and that happens as well
and then what you're doing is depending
on the type of crimp you're supposed to
have some part of the jacket because
another part is gonna go and actually
crimp on to that right so you don't want
to have too little or too much you have
to have the right amount it's easy if
you do it too much you cut the wire
start over and do it again right and
over time you'll get a sense of what is
the right amount to remove so you make
sure it you never you make sure as you
put it in that you don't actually that
you always see the seam right because
otherwise you're wondering did the
jacket actually go into the sleeve of
the terminal okay that's really
important make sure you know what I do
is I actually I turn a little bit the
strands to make sure that all the
strands are actually going to go into
the terminal you see that to some people
put the strands and the strands start
flaring out now it's fine for a terminal
that's in the air by itself nothing else
but in a lot of applications you're
going to have terminal to terminal to
terminal and if you've got a positive
touching another positive and one
circuit breaker is off and the other
ones on then the currents going to go
through one wire to the other wire it
back down so you want to make sure that
there's no loose strands coming out of a
terminal you want to crimp the right
amount you're thinking well how do I
know that
if you've got a ratcheting crimper you
won't have to figure that out if you
don't then what's gonna happen is you
want to be able to crimp the wire hard
enough that you don't obviously break
the insulation
all right that's obvious and also what
you're gonna do is what's called and
that's the ultimate thing that you
should always do is do a pull test and
honestly unengaged
I don't know what it is but on engage
ten wire or twelve you can pull us
pretty much as hard as you can and that
terminal can't come off so don't be
scared of saying well I don't want to
break it it's actually counterintuitive
but if you can actually pull it off that
means you don't have a good crimp and if
you don't have a good crimp under load
ie when the current is running through
it at maximum capacity potentially you
could have resistance which causes heat
which causes more resistance and it
snowballs and then the last thing
depending on what type of terminal
you've used you can apply heat shrink so
if you bought if you decide to go with
heat shrink then what you would do is
you apply the heat shrink on the
terminal on the insulation and then it
would shrink down and you want to see it
literally evenly done and you want to
see it who's at the bottom there's gonna
be a little bit of a gel that's gonna
come out and then once that's done and
it's cold again you do a pull test
because you gotta wait till it's cold
because otherwise it's gonna distort and
then you're done with the terminal if
you do it properly and I see it on votes
that are really well built
you'll never I mean honestly it's it's a
generation like in 30 40 years 50 years
I mean some boats that I see they're
really really well done like Hatteras
you know they're built in the 70s and
they've been to everywhere not just in
our waters where it's the salinity is
not that high but like clearly
everywhere the terminals are out there
they were taken down with care they're
still gonna be good and then you've got
other guys that are doing stuff and tape
cutting corners and just and then maybe
after five 10 years or 15 years
depending at what happens on the boat
especially if there's a lot more
moisture than those connectors could
literally fall off okay so that's kind
of like the reason for why it matters
and what you should do so the next thing
we're going to do is I'm gonna bring you
to the table if you want to see and I'm
gonna have Romeo show you how do crimps
and there's a bunch of other crimpers
there and people can ask questions
yeah there's a question yeah
well you know the good thing is that
okay so the question is how do I know if
it's automotive cabling or marine wire
well first of all you could generally
get a sense just by the feel of the wire
the wire feels stiff it's not marine
okay at the end of the day marine wire
is very flexible that would be one day
one way there's also a ul code that I
don't know offhand
there's your ul code that's gonna say
there's not that many manufacturers of
marine wiring right there's an an Corps
there's a what's the other Alamo and I
can't there's a few other companies but
not that much and they'll actually gonna
brag about it like nobody's gonna be
building a marine cable and go incognito
okay like it's like it's like having if
you have a smart charger nobody's not
going to put smart on the device if it's
a smart charger they'll just call it a
charger right if they're not anything
else than that but nobody in marketing
is ever not gonna take you know brag
about something to differentiate because
at the end of the day when you look at
the cabling the price difference is
significant okay
multiples of it's not like welding cable
is like $1 a foot and you know marine
wiring is a dollar ten it's not a 10%
increase it could be literally multiples
of so if it's if the jacket looks crispy
too like over time Marine welding wire
especially in a marine environment
you'll see actually the insulation of
the jacket is actually gonna crack it's
almost gonna be like dry skin and you're
gonna actually see I've seen some boats
where they literally are peeling off
like almost like oranges like they're
actually cracking off because it's been
20 30 years right and over time that
welding wire was not meant to be used
for 30 years in a marine environment it
was used to be used by a welder for a
year throw it away buy a new set of
cables so that might be the way that how
you would know there is actually when
you look at Ethernet wiring so that's
probably you talking about communication
yes there are different types of
Ethernet wires out there and there's
definitely there's actually even
connectors that are for marine you can't
find that anywhere
you got to go online but absolutely
there are there are definitely Ethernet
connectors rj45 that are meant for
marine applications and you'll find them
for example we work on some bigger
yachts like hundred footer plus and a
lot of them will have a lot of ip-based
communications on those boats and on
that you're going to be using different
not just your standard Ethernet cable
that you're gonna have in a homeland
environment and their spec for that as
well you pay more for it obviously but
again probably better a lot of those
cables generally are mission-critical
type of applications on the larger
yachts and so you can't it's not a
convenience thing they absolutely need
that cable to be integral for the
duration foreseeable duration of the
service any other questions
all right without much ado then I'm
gonna bring you to the table so that you
guys can see the crimps being done by
Romeo and I'll be able to answer any
questions there so the problem is when
you're you're yourself a
do-it-yourselfer and you what's your
limit how many crimps are you gonna do
in a year it's harder right and it's
that exactly so they do it so what's
really good to offset that lack of
experience that Romeo has right he can
do it in his sleep he probably being
coma he'd be able to do crimps but where
you want to do is something like that
it's always gonna be the right one and
remember what I was saying at the
beginning what's interesting is that you
don't have room for error right it's not
getting 99 like honey I did amazing I
got 99.9 right it's the one that you got
wrong that is one too many
so that's why this makes more sense but
when you do that that's like a wide-open
door so what you're really protecting is
it's almost four really it's of no use
putting heat shrink on the side here
when the tongue is open it's of no
benefit and especially on the larger
lugs right a larger lugs are like you
know maybe about this big and you put a
heat shrink on the scene and you've got
all the wires open and your thing well
moisture is not gonna go up what happens
is over time as the wire is being used
it heats up right guess what happens
when it heats up and it cools down
moisture gets wikked in and out
and that moisture on an untenured I'd go
on boats those have been in service for
20-30 years you start cutting the white
okay we got a bad connection two inches
four inches six eight a foot a foot and
a half I've got a two feet deep until
you get bare copper all of that is
completely oxidized well then at one
point the problem is well the problem is
well that's the thing too is that one
point is how long is the wire run right
a lot of them at that point it's too
short and if you're gonna service you
should bring to terminal strip you
should not put a buck connector and then
you got to put somewhere put another
wire but it's another weak point if it's
a starter circuit you're not gonna do
that
you shouldn't have every connection is a
potential failure so that's what I'm
saying is like I had a client that had a
relatively new boat and he had made in
China open in and lugs copper copper
antenna wire welding wire with just heat
ring on the side and I told the owner I
said if I were you one weekend well you
should do is kind of every single one of
those lugs you're gonna lose this much
now you can still service all of it but
in five or ten years if this is a long
play for you when the the jacket is
gonna be the the corrosion is gonna be
six inches deep you won't have enough
and then it's too late
so now is your opportunity to fix it
before it gets bad terminal connector
well because they normally do those yeah
that's right yeah or they'll still do
like for example they do that on our
boards for example they'll have this
stud it's gonna be a double it's not a
switch it's like you've got one terminal
from the engine right from the outboard
and then one going to the battery
all right so because normally a lot of
the cables that come on a Yama or Honda
aren't that good quality wiring they're
not right and so what you do is the
student comes into the boat you bring it
to this bus bar right it's like and it's
got pot it's going to literally have
multiple studs pairs and some of the
wires you terminate and then the other
ones go out and it's also the place to
troubleshoot right looks like okay I got
power right - almost the outboard
I see it there if I don't see it there
you know it's coming in pretty much in
the outboard Joe can you make
as good as this with reach rank if you
know no because you won't it's never
gonna be the same it won't be the same
that's what I'm saying it's like if I
put this I don't bother putting eat
drink if I'm gonna use eat wrink then
I'm gonna use this type of terminal yeah
yeah look exactly that's it that's done
no there's a heat ring terminal heat
shrink and you can give them and I mean
literally the price is huge between the
two yeah I mean yeah I mean this is free
effectively almost you can buy them it's
not five cents I don't I mean it seems
significant this if you're gonna choose
or on my boat I do it all with this but
as an owner you if you're in the bills
you should do this if it's a life
critical application nav lights write a
nav light is up in the bow you know
you're gonna see water there you know
you should heat shrink if you're gonna
do an anchor light do this right because
you're the hassle of going up it's gonna
take forever all those things that are
not serviceable you should be targeting
having these then you might say well I'm
only putting on all my downrigger in
four five years and that may be you
start taking shortcuts and be using
these ones I like these ones but I mean
it in a day everyone has a budget right
so it depends it comes like this yeah
all like that okay and then the heat
shrink encloses you correct that's right
that's we have exactly way too much
should be just correct that's right no
not on these ones not on this type this
one here is a double crimp when you put
it in depending on the these ratcheting
Clippers have double crimps they'll do
one on here and one on and a lighter one
yeah that's right yeah yeah so so what I
was saying earlier was you really got to
make sure that and I've seen that and
this is the worst is you cut too little
insulation and then you actually have
the insulation going in underneath and
that's the worst right so you always
have to be able to see it's like a fine
line you have to see a fine line you
have to see the insula jacket and see
this you've got to barely see the metal
and then a metal starts on the wire
if you don't see it it's underneath and
the question is how far underneath is it
so don't say well it's not too much I
don't think right because also when you
crimp down now you a part of that
terminal won't be able to touch the wire
so you basically you should see it stick
a note well you want the wire to reach
yeah and that's the other thing too like
on these ones it's harder because but on
this one you want to be able to see
correct that's right yeah that's right
so you want to just and you know if
you're gonna do it in priority think
about what are things are life-critical
on your boat like if you're gonna if
you're dependent on your GPS that'd be a
good one to start doing your anchor
light it's pretty important Naville ight
pretty important bilge pumps utterly
important and those are the ones that if
you're gonna spend time on doing them
properly you know take these connections
and take just do it slow because once
you've done it you'll never have to do
it again all right so you don't want to
just hammer them out they've got a gun
to your head yeah that is actually that
is blue in there it is part of it like
you see this actually you can actually
see the glue coming out you see that at
the end so this actually has glue in it
right now it's only it only comes out
when you apply the heat and it's gonna
shout and on the Lark yeah exactly and
you can see that on the larger you can
even see it on the larger terminals like
this is only a gauge 1416 but on the
twelve twelve ten or there's even eight
for heat trick like this you'll see a
lot of oohs coming out and you want it
when you're using a heat gun you want to
make sure that you evenly apply the heat
right so that you don't see any air
pockets anywhere because an air pocket
from one air pocket to another air
pocket in another pair is now
effectively it becomes effectively a
pathway for moisture to go in I you
can't do it all you can't
it's just can't redo everything I mean
it's nobody has the time it would take
thousands of hours and we run a small
boat so what you do is you just target
the ones that you think okay which ones
are the ones I matters the most to me or
for example some boats let's say for
example if you have a small power
the engine-room on a small powerboat can
have pretty humid pretty nasty place
when you think about it right like close
hatch
yeah the blowers come on but they only
come out some amount of time there's
always water in the bilge right that
place is horrible for corrosion like
it's horrible so if you've got terminal
strips in there or anything in there
that are going forward feeding forward
you want to redo all those connections
because the the humidity level is
through the roof right and especially in
the winter it's not that bad because
there's not able to suck the moisture
and at least the moisture is on the
ground but as in the summer when it's
warm the air can hold a lot more
moisture so the moisture that's in the
village now is in the air everywhere
right and it can it's touching
everything so you really want to make
sure that those areas that are high
moisture environments if you have any
types of these terminals in there that
would be the ones I would target the
ones into your boat in your cabin
they'll never get to super human right
because they're out in the environment
you know they're equalizing with it it's
not that bad but the ones in the engine
rooms are the worse those little boats
I'm talking about not the big trawlers
right
yeah I don't there's people that put in
lanta coat there's different sprays that
exist to cover connections yeah a lot of
coat there's all these different
products I find that I don't like them
because it attracts a lot of dirt but in
the Caribbean in Florida and the eastern
seaboard where there's a high much
higher level of salinity than in the
Pacific it's strongly encouraged here in
BC the salinity level in our local
waters is very low it is it's just the
water here it doesn't I mean if you swim
here and you swim in the Caribbean
you'll cry in the Caribbean okay and
like your eyes are burning
here you won't cry so the Saline level
is different a why he's bad - like the
rigging in Hawaii only last like ten
years you have to change it yeah you
have to change it it's gone but in BC
it's not the same so I guess for here I
don't think it's necessary I've got a
lot of my clients at boats from the 70s
and 80s that were well built like a lot
of Clint's with Hatteras or whatnot and
the boats are local and the connections
have never had it no problem but if
you're both leaving offshore and you're
gonna go in in those places then you
might want to think about using those
types of sprays in it it's an offset
between cleanliness right and corrosion
prevention practical sailor made a big
article about it they use Lana code they
put it out outside they sealed the box
they have the connections out there and
they had terminal strips literally with
some without and they left it every year
so it was an accelerated type of you
know marine environment you know it was
like salt water in there it was like
horrible environment and obviously the
ones that were protected and did better
they just do I just think it might be an
overkill in our waters here I think this
is probably the best way and then it's
just more manageable
you
English (auto-generated)
Understand and Wire Your Boat’s Electrical System
How To: Marine Electrical Seminar - Charging Your Batteries - Episode 3 of 12
Electrical